Rolex is gathering strength to hold back its big move

“In 2025, Rolex will launch a replica version of 6062.”

--predict

In March of this year, Rolex came with the new Perpetual 1908, which features precious metals, small seconds, leather straps, and slimness. Among its common tool watches, it looks "very un- Rolex " and is full of elegant formal watch attributes.

Sharp-eyed friends also discovered that the Type 1908 came and Cellini left, so they judged that the Type 1908 was a reasonable replacement for Cellini.

I thought otherwise.

This year’s four 1908 models (platinum and yellow gold each have black and white dials) are more like the prelude of Rolex’s big move. This series has no strong connection with Cellini. Its core is Rolex’s ambition-to impact expensive formal wear . table field.

I saw a comment before that said: If the 1908 model goes on the road, it will eventually be the fate of the tie-in.

My opinion is also no.

In 1908, Hans Wilsdorf officially founded Rolex , so 1908 is of great significance. The fact that the series can be named after this year number is enough to show the importance of the brand.

In addition, the new 7140 movement carried by the 1908 model is too big to imagine . The thickness of the 7140 movement is only 4.05 mm, which is 34% thinner than the main 32 series movement and 13% thinner than the Jaeger -LeCoultre 899 movement. You must know that the thickness of the 7140 movement is only 4.05 mm. Because of its thinness, the Caliber 899 has long been the favorite basic movement for brands such as Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin . Therefore, it is too easy for Rolex to add calendar, moon phase and other modules

to the 7140. In the future, this series will definitely develop more complex functions.

Speaking of moon phases, we have to cue Cellini again. The ref.50535 released in 2017 was originally a scarce product, but the market response was tepid. Watch friends didn’t like it, and the media didn’t want to write about it. In the end, it was sad. Exit.

Throughout its century-old history, Rolex has only released three moon phases. In addition to the above-mentioned Cellini moon phase, there are two other moon phases, ref.6062 and ref.8171. The disk layout of these two antique timepieces is somewhat similar to the first mass-produced perpetual calendar watch, Patek Philippe ref. 1526. The dual windows for the day and month have been moved to just below the 12 o'clock scale, taking center stage, with the second hand and moon phase. Integrated into the 6 o'clock steering wheel, the date indication is slightly different, but classics are classics and are worthy of imitation.

Figure 1: ref.6062

Figure 2: ref.8171

Although ref.6062 was born in 1950, it is actually not unfamiliar to us. It has been in the news.

In 2017, the ref.6062 of Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, was auctioned for a sky-high price of 35 million yuan, becoming the most expensive Rolex at that time. After the Franco-Vietnam War was completed in 1954, Bao Dai went to Switzerland to discuss the future of Vietnam with countries around the world. During this period, he accidentally discovered the watch store Chronomètrie Philippe Beguin and said to the clerk: What I want is the rarest and most precious Rolex . In the end, the diamond-encrusted version ref. 6062, which is only three pieces in the world, won his satisfaction.

We know that the most complex Rolex product line today is the Angel Sky-Dweller, so that some friends who are new to the watch industry mistakenly believe that Rolex cannot make complex functions. After reading ref.6062 and ref.8171, you can feel that whether it is the moon phase or the full calendar, Rolex still has it in hand, and their complexity will not be lower than that of the Sky-Dweller.

Complications born around the 1950s include the full-calendar chronograph Dato-Compax, which was later worn by skier Jean-Claude Killy, also known as Killy. Killy is the final chapter of complex antiques , starting with ref.4768 (non-Oyster case)/ref.4767 (Oyster case) and ending with ref.6236, spanning the 15 years from 1947 to 1962.

ref.6236

ref.6236 is the most collectible among them, equipped with an external Valjoux movement.

Both ref.6062 and ref.6236 were not popular when they were launched. They were displayed on the shelves and accumulated dust. This cold situation was similar to that of Daytona when it was released ; and after the quartz crisis, mechanical The timekeeping and full calendar functions of the watch are a bit lame, so these expensive watches were relegated to the sidelines before they even experienced their peak.

So why do you still dare to assert that Rolex will launch a replica version of 6062 in 2025?

Finally, I have come to the key points. I have compiled the following reasons for you to take a look at.

1. Things are different now

Before the 1990s, Rolex, like many brands, obtained its parts and components through suppliers, which easily resulted in poor quality control.

Later, Patrick Heiniger strategically acquired companies such as case manufacturer Genex, strap manufacturer Gay Frères, dial manufacturer Beyeler, crown manufacturer Boninchi, and movement manufacturer Aegler. In 2004, it achieved fully independent production and quality control. It is no longer a difficult problem, so if Rolex wants to recreate other complex functions, the quality can be guaranteed.

2. Multiple paths

In recent years, Rolex has only relied on sports watches to dominate Swiss watches. However, after the brand has seen too many situations where a single watch model can rise and collapse, multiple lines and multiple preparations can maintain long-term influence.

You see, 5711 is so popular that Patek Philippe stops it whenever it wants; 11.59 is so criticized, but Audemars Piguet still releases new models. For Rolex, formal watches are a good choice.

3. Type 1908 is ambition

From the naming rules to the imaginable space of the 7140 movement, the 1908 model is destined to not be unfinished and will develop in the high-end direction.

4. Watches are getting more expensive

It was mentioned in an article that Swiss mechanical watches can just go for expensive watches now. The 1908 model is priced at 170,000 to 80,000 yuan, which is not expensive. The later models, with the remnants of Bao Dai or other auctions, the topicality of replicas, moon phase functions, calendar instructions, etc., can easily sell for three to four hundred thousand, and someone will buy it.

5. 75th anniversary

2025 is the 75th anniversary of the release of ref.6062. Foreigners attach great importance to multiples of 25. Therefore, ref.6062 can be grafted into the 1908 series and resurrected. It does not matter if it is not an Oyster case in the early stage.